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Building the Poker Table
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House Rules
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As seen on:
Home Poker Tourney - Advice on How to Host and Run a No-limit Texas Hold'em Poker Tournament

As seen on:
PCPotato.com - Get off the couch and feed your brain....
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How to Build a Poker Table

These are free poker table plans, but it's still copyrighted.

I've decided it's time to build a 10-person Hold'Em Poker Table. I'm using most of the plans and dimensions from Jasen's ("pcpotato") website. Thanks very much to Jasen for putting up his plans. I really like his technique for making and mounting the rail. I have to make one change -- the beer must must be Pacifico.

Questions? Check the free discussion forum for lots of great answers.

03/12/2004

Started building the table at 11:00pm. Hope neighbors don't mind the noise. The plan right now is to make this as a table-top that fits over my dining table, and to make it in two halves so it can be easily stored.

03/13/2004

Made all the round cuts. Started the sanding job.

All sanded and first coat of polyurethane to protect the wood from beverage spills soaking through the cover and foam.

I couldn't resist trying on the cover. Some felt is too fuzzy and gets fuzzier over time and has a tendency to catch the edge of a card when it's being dealt, sometimes catching the edge enough to flip it over! I went with a blue-gray cotton velvet with very short fibers. The next step is to hunt down some 1/4" foam padding. Oops, I forgot -- next step is sanding and another coat of polyurethane then waiting 24 hours for it to dry. Then the foam.

03/14/2004

Today was rail-day. I decided to cut the rail out in one whole piece, and then cut and attach an underside rim later out of left over pieces. The rim I decided to make 1" width and the rail 5" width. In order to cut the piece out of one 4x8 foot sheet of plywood and fit on the table, I had to trim the table length by 2".

Here's the center piece cut out. It took a while to get to this point. Measure twice, cut once!

The rail. I haven't cut out the 1" underside rim pieces yet.

I just had to try fit the rail on the uncovered table.

Of course, I couldn't resist.

03/17/2004

The part of the project I wasn't looking forward to -- cutting out the underside rim for the rail and attaching it to the rail. I decided to go with a 1" width rim, just wide enough to keep the rail from moving around, but not too wide so that people leaning on the edge of the rail could raise the other side because of leverage.

03/18/2004

After a lot of sanding and trial fitting, I got the rail and rim to fit snugly onto the table top.

I was determined to get this done by gameday Friday. At least, to get the cover and padding done. To make the pad, I decided that rather than buy padding that goes to the edge of the table and having the rails "float" on top of the foam padding, why not just cut out the pad just for the center. So, I started by mounting the rail, and tracing the inside of the rail to determine the pad size and shape.

With the rail still in place, I sprayed the "center" of the table with spray adhesive, then sprayed the foam pad and lay it down on the table. I had to work quickly! I then put the rail back on top and cut around the inside edge of the rail to remove excess padding. With the rail removed and the excess foam cut away, this left a nice center foam pad.

I had to try fit the rail with the cover on the pad. Immediately, Oreo decided this was nice and comfortable to sit on.

Many hours later of pulling and stapling the cover to the underside, I ended up with this. Only the rail padding is left now!

I started out by cutting out the foam pieces. Then, spray adhesive to the top of the rail and to the bottom of the foam pad. Wait a few secs for the glue to get tacky then join together.

Glue the same way for the inner side of the rail and the outer side of the rail. After the foam has glued well to the rail, take a hacksaw blade and cut the foam excess off.

03/19/2004

Well, today is gameday and I have to finish this. I finished most of the foam wrapping around the rail and vinyl covered most of the rail. I finished up the rest of it today.

I did the vinyl sections in 8 pieces. The 2 long pieces, and 3 (x2) curved pieces for each of the round sides. When overlapping vinyl, I folded over one end glued it to itself to give it a more finished look.

After wrapping, staple the vinyl to the rail. Pull the vinyl hard so you don't have too many wrinkles! I used a TON of 1/2" staples. I found it very important to use a "contractor grade" staple gun, as it has more shooting power to get the staples through the vinyl and deep into the wood. I tried a regular one, and I kept having to hammer in staples the rest of the way or they would just bend on impact. Get the better staple gun. I got the Arrow T50PBN which shoots not only up to 9/16" staples but also brad nails. It was $17 at Target.

Here's how the rail pad turned out.

Close up of the rail pad. You can see the separate sections and where I overlapped and undertucked the vinyl when two sections came together.

The final table. I really, really enjoyed this project. It was a lot of fun. I even got to buy a few more tools along the way!

Dimensions:
Table40" wide x 94" long
Rail42" wide x 96" long

Materials used:
QtyDescriptionSupplier
24' x 8' x 3/4" plywood sheets, birch hardwoodHome Depot
144" x 108" velvet (table)Jo-Ann Fabric & Crafts
154" x 36" cotton-backed vinyl (rail)Jo-Ann Fabric & Crafts
11/4" closed-cell foam padding (table)American Foam Center (Arlington, VA)
11/2" camera case foam padding (rail)American Foam Center (Arlington, VA)
1small can of polyurethaneHome Depot
1cheap paint brushHome Depot
1Duro spray adhesiveJo-Ann Fabric & Crafts
13M "77" spray adhesive (much better!)Home Depot
1ScotchGuard sprayJo-Ann Fabric & Crafts
1box of 1,250 T50 1/2" staple gun staplesHome Depot
1box of 1-1/4" wood screwsHome Depot
1wood glueHome Depot

Were these building tips and information helpful?
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I appreciate it!


All data and images are Copyright (c) 2014 by Scott A. Keen. All rights reserved.